Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and travelers equally swearing by its superb cuisine.
A Global Honor
Recently, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a exclusive group of global cities and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it joins a global network of over 400 urban centers across over 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "stands as proof of its profound culinary traditions and lively gastronomic culture," as stated by a spokesperson from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this historic city arrives as hardly a shock to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, bustling, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is finally in the limelight for what has consistently characterized its essence: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a constant discussion from morning until going to bed in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and raised to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of food experimentation, merging Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the mutton galouti was invented to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only highlights fresh harvests but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and kiosks – little-known delights that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, served in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a unpretentious joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and demanding. The artisan beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of however express concern that their younger generation are reluctant to master the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will inspire more people worldwide to learn these narratives and travel to the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
